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Don't let the modest wood clothespin that holds the pleated white napkin fool you. The French Laundry is elegant, haute and rarified. Reservations are taken up to two months in advance exactly. People sit with finger poised above the telephone ready to call at 10 a.m.There's no door on the street side, just go around the back, into the garden and enter the door that's almost hidden. The French Laundry
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September's Great Selections!
UP-AND-COMING CUISINE
The Ultimate Meatball
Sonoma, Calif.: Cornerstone Gardens

