August eNews, 2010

UP-AND-COMING CUISINE

Nothing against pho and empanadas, but your palate's probably ready for something new. Here are the long-overlooked cuisines that are finally getting attention from chefs across America.

SPANISH BASQUE:

Philadelphia: Tinto
Along the Spain-France border lies Basque Country, a region with a distinctive surf-and-turf cuisine that's finally finding ambassadors in the United States. At his Philadelphia wine bar and restaurant Tinto, Jose Garces does a twist on a classic pintxo (the Basque version of a tapa), pairing anchovies and pickled peppers with melon.
114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150

SOUTH INDIAN:

New York: Tiffin Wallah
You've been eating Indian food for years, but odds are it's been the naan-fueled dishes of the country's north. Now the once underappreciated chow of the south is getting its due, with restaurants building menus around the dosa, a rice-and-lentil crêpe. At Tiffin Wallah in New York, the crispy paper variety—meant to be dipped in coconut chutney and sambar (soupy spiced lentils)—is the specialty.
127 E. 28th St., 212-685-7301

CENTRAL EUROPEAN:

Raleigh, NC: J. Betski's
The countries sandwiched between Italy and Russia may not be known for culinary achievement, but don't tell that to John Korzekwinski, who, at J. Betski's in Raleigh, North Carolina, seduces hip locals with plates of pretzel-crusted pork tenderloin with beer jus and sauerkraut. The tangy cabbage concoction tops 20-plus kinds of sausage—including a far-from-classic duck, bacon, and jalapeño one.
10 W. Franklin St., 919-833-7999

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